Forty-eight hours on the Amalfi Coast is an exercise in concentrated beauty. The SS163 clings to cliff faces above a sea of impossible turquoise; villages of pink and ochre cascade down to the water; the air smells of lemon groves and salt. It is among the most visually dramatic stretches of coastline in the world — and it rewards those who know how to move through it.
This two-day itinerary centres on Positano, with a ferry excursion to Amalfi town and a day trip inland to Ravello's clifftop gardens. It is designed for travellers who want the essential Amalfi experience — the best hotel on the coast, a Michelin-starred dinner, and enough time by the sea to actually feel it.
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Positano is reached by private transfer from Naples (approximately 1.5 hours along the coastal road) or by high-speed ferry from the Naples port in around 70 minutes — the ferry is faster and considerably more dramatic, arriving into the village from the sea as the pink-and-terracotta facades rise before you.
- MorningArrive by Ferry or Private TransferDepart Naples by high-speed ferry from Molo Beverello (journey ~70 min, highly recommended) or arrange a private car from Naples airport or your previous accommodation. Check in to Le Sirenuse and allow yourself an unhurried arrival — the view from your room will demand it.
- AfternoonWalk Positano's Steep LanesPositano is a vertical village — every route involves stairs, and the streets are best explored on foot. Walk down through the bougainvillea-lined alleys to the waterfront, browse the boutiques along Via dei Mulini, and discover the 13th-century Santa Maria Assunta church with its majolica-tiled dome.
- Late PMSpiaggia GrandeThe main beach is a mosaic of coloured sunbeds against dramatic cliffs. The water is clear and cool — swim, float, and do very little. This is the correct activity for a Positano afternoon.
- SunsetAperitivo on the Hotel TerraceReturn to Le Sirenuse for Campari soda or a Prosecco on the terrace as the light turns gold and the sea below deepens to cobalt. This is the moment you came for.
- EveningDinner at La SpondaLe Sirenuse's Michelin-starred restaurant is lit by over 400 candles each evening, draping the terrace in warm light above the illuminated village. The menu is resolutely Campanian — fresh pasta, local fish, buffalo mozzarella — prepared with exceptional refinement. Reserve well in advance; La Sponda is one of the most sought-after tables on the coast.
The second day ventures beyond Positano — by ferry to Amalfi town, then by road up into the hills to Ravello, one of Italy's most elevated and extraordinary villages. The return journey passes lemon groves and coastal belvederes before a final evening in Positano.
- MorningFerry to Amalfi TownTake the morning ferry from Positano to Amalfi (approximately 30 minutes, several daily departures in season). Arrive into the small harbour and walk directly to the Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea — the 9th-century duomo whose bronze doors, Arab-Norman cloister, and black-and-white striped facade are among the most striking in southern Italy. Allow an hour to explore inside and in the Piazza del Duomo below.
- Mid AMRavello Day TripFrom Amalfi, hire a taxi or join a shared transfer for the 7km ascent to Ravello — a journey of 25 minutes up hairpin bends through terraced lemon orchards. Ravello sits 350 metres above the sea and has a quietness entirely its own. The Villa Rufolo gardens, begun in the 13th century, offer the most extraordinary clifftop views on the entire coast — Wagner composed Parsifal here, inspired by the gardens. Walk the belvedere and take your time.
- MiddayLimoncello Tasting in RavelloThe Amalfi Coast's lemons — sfusato amalfitano — are among the world's finest, protected by IGP designation. Stop for a limoncello tasting at one of Ravello's small producers; the local variety is less sweet and more intensely citrus than commercial versions. Buy a bottle to take home.
- AfternoonReturn to PositanoDescend back to Amalfi by taxi and take the afternoon ferry back to Positano (approximately 30 minutes). Allow time for a final swim at Spiaggia Grande or a quiet hour on the hotel terrace.
- EveningFarewell DinnerA final dinner in Positano — consider Il Ritrovo in Montepertuso (perched above the village, exceptional Campanian cuisine) or Next2 on the waterfront for fresh seafood. End the evening on Le Sirenuse's Champagne Bar with a glass of something cold and the lights of the coast below.
Practical Information
Getting to Positano: The nearest airports are Naples (NAP, 1.5 hours by road or 70 minutes by ferry) and Rome Fiumicino (FCO, 3.5 hours by private transfer). For short trips, Naples is the obvious gateway. Pre-arrange your transfer — taxis at Naples airport have fixed rates to the Amalfi Coast; agree the price before departure.
Moving around: Positano is a walking village — flat-soled shoes are essential as the lanes are steep and paved with smooth stone. For Amalfi and Ravello, ferries (April–October) are the most efficient option. The local SITA buses connect the coast towns for a few euros but are crowded in high season.
Dining reservations: La Sponda at Le Sirenuse books out weeks in advance during summer — reserve as soon as your hotel is confirmed. The restaurant's reservation team can be reached directly through the hotel.
What to pack: Light linen, a good pair of walking sandals, sun protection, and cash for smaller restaurants and market stalls. Most village shops and smaller restaurants still prefer cash payment.