French Riviera in 48 Hours: Nice, Monaco & the Côte d'Azur

The French Riviera is one of those places that has been famous so long — for its light, its sea, its superyachts and film festivals — that it is easy to forget quite how genuinely beautiful it is. Nice's baroque old town, the extraordinary Promenade des Anglais curving against a sky of Mediterranean blue, the cliff-perched village of Èze with its medieval lanes, and Monaco's outrageous concentration of wealth and elegance all sit within 30 kilometres of each other.

This two-day itinerary covers the essential Côte d'Azur — a full day in Nice exploring the old town and coast, a sunrise over the Baie des Anges, and a second day in Monaco with a stop in Èze on the return. It is a route designed to feel effortless rather than rushed.

Nice is a more substantial city than the Riviera's glossy reputation suggests — with a rich Baroque architectural heritage, a genuinely excellent food culture rooted in both French and Italian influences, and a quality of light that has drawn painters from Matisse to Chagall. It rewards unhurried exploration on foot.

• Morning
  Promenade des Anglais WalkBegin the day with a walk along the Promenade — the famous 7km seafront boulevard that curves around the Baie des Anges. At this hour, before the sun has fully arrived and the day-trippers appear, it is genuinely peaceful. The morning light on the sea is among the finest things about Nice.
• Mid AM
  Cours Saleya Flower MarketThe old town's famous flower and produce market runs every morning except Monday, when antique dealers take over. A riot of colour and scent — fresh flowers, local vegetables, olives, and socca (the Niçoise chickpea pancake). Buy a cone of socca from Chez René Socca and eat it standing up.
• Midday
  Vieux-Nice (Old Town) ExplorationThe narrow lanes of Vieux-Nice — baroque facades painted in ochre, terracotta, and burnt sienna — form one of the most atmospheric old quarters in France. Walk the Rue de la Préfecture and Rue Rossetti, visit the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, and navigate by instinct rather than map.
• Lunch
  La MerendaOne of the most celebrated small restaurants in the south of France — ten tables, no telephone, no card payments, no concessions to modernity. The Niçoise cuisine (pissaladière, daube de boeuf, pasta with pistou) is exceptional. Arrive early or late to secure a table; they take no reservations.
• Afternoon
  Colline du ChâteauTake the free elevator or climb the stairs to the Colline du Château — a hilltop park with the most dramatic panorama over Nice and the Baie des Anges. The view westward along the Promenade as the afternoon light thickens is extraordinary. A 30-minute visit rewards with photographs that will define the trip.
• Evening
  Dinner at Le ChanteclerThe Negresco's two-Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the finest dining experiences on the Riviera — a Belle Époque room of gilded panelling and velvet banquettes, serving classical French cuisine with Mediterranean influence. Reserve well in advance and dress accordingly.

Monaco is 25 kilometres east of Nice — a 25-minute train ride for €4, or a 35-minute drive along the lower Corniche road with the sea to your right the entire way. The train is the more sensible option: it runs frequently, costs almost nothing, and arrives directly into Monaco-Monte-Carlo station a few minutes' walk from the Casino.

• Morning
  Train to MonacoTake the 9am or 10am train from Nice-Ville station — journey 25 minutes, €4 each way, departures every 30 minutes. One of Europe's finest-value train rides: the line hugs the Mediterranean coast for almost the entire journey, with sea views from both sides of the carriage.
• Mid AM
  Monaco-Ville (Le Rocher)The old rock of Monaco — the original settlement — sits above the modern principality on a 60-metre cliff. Walk or take the elevator up from the port. The Palais Princier (Prince's Palace) opens for tours from June through October; the changing of the guard occurs daily at 11:55am precisely. The Musée Océanographique, founded by Prince Albert I in 1910, is one of the finest marine museums in the world — allow two hours.
• Midday
  Casino de Monte-CarloThe Beaux-Arts Casino is the symbol of Monaco and, regardless of whether you intend to gamble, worth entering for the extraordinary interiors alone. The public rooms open at 2pm (entrance fee); the main gaming rooms open in the evening with a dress code that is enforced. A visit before lunch provides the grandeur without the formality.
• Lunch
  Café de ParisThe brasserie facing the Casino has been a Monaco institution since 1882 — grand, bustling, and very French. Order the Niçoise salad and watch the Ferraris circulate the square. It is not the most refined lunch on the Riviera, but it is the most Monaco.
• Afternoon
  Port HerculeA walk along the port reveals the extraordinary concentration of superyachts that make Monaco's harbour unlike anywhere else in the world. During the Monaco Grand Prix in late May, the entire port becomes the paddock — the circuit runs through the streets immediately above.
• Late PM
  Èze Village on ReturnOn the train or bus back towards Nice, stop at Èze — a medieval village perched 429 metres above the sea on a rocky promontory. The lanes are steep, narrow, and car-free; the Jardin Exotique at the summit offers the most dramatic coastal panorama between Nice and Monaco. Allow 1.5 hours. Return to Nice for a farewell dinner in the old town.

Practical Information

Getting to Nice: Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) is one of France's busiest international airports, with direct connections from most major European hubs and transatlantic flights via Paris or London. The airport is 7 kilometres from the city centre — take the tram line 2 directly to the city (€1.70, 25 minutes) or arrange a private transfer.

Monaco dress code: The Casino de Monte-Carlo enforces a smart dress code in its main gaming rooms — jackets for men, no shorts or trainers. The public entrance rooms are more relaxed. Monaco-Ville and the port have no dress requirements, but the principality as a whole maintains a certain level of presentation — dress thoughtfully.

Currency in Monaco: Monaco uses the euro. Almost everywhere accepts cards, though some smaller vendors and market stalls prefer cash. ATMs are available throughout the principality.

Getting around Nice: Vieux-Nice and the seafront are best explored on foot. The city tram system is efficient for longer distances. Taxis are available throughout but not essential for this itinerary — almost everything worth seeing in Nice is within a 20-minute walk of the Promenade.